I am hoping to use the fishing boat then. We have a Pike Derby in the spring where I live. When I was a kid my dad had a 1955 Mercury Mark 7 - 7 1/2 HP. It had a 1963 Johnson 18 HP on it - which I will sell off. I would have put an original 30HP (I am tempted to get a Johnson Javelin) on it but, I'm getting older and an 18 is about all I can lift over the next ten years in that vintage.īoat No2 is the 1954 open fishing boat. I was fortunate in that the owner of boat No 1 had a buyer for the 1990's 30 HP Evinrude. I want to put an original 1957 Johnson 18HP electric start on it and a 1957 Johnson 3HP for trolling. I used to be a member of the antique outboard club. Boat No 1 (runabout) has all of the original steering controls and the guy has an original Johnson shifter. If you would like to call and have me go over anything, send me a PM and we can set something up. I spent many years building wooden boats of from 12 to 154 feet. I assume your repair is going to extend past the transom? Leave it long and trim it to fit when all your fastening and cleaning up is done. Lefty loosey, righty tighty.Ĭut a scarf of at least 8:1 ratio at the forward end of your repair and glue it somewhere that leaves access to clean it up, and hopefully get a fastener or two through the scarf and into a frame. With clench nails, carefully grind or drill the head and push them through from the outside. If it’s rivets, carefully grind off the burr and drive them out from the inside. It will likely be fastened to the framing with either rivets (unlikely) clench nails, or screws. Put plastic under the caul so the squeeze-out doesn’t glue your caul in place.Īnother alternative is to carefully remove the piece you want to replace and use it for a pattern.

Do you have any clamps that can reach over the sheer to enable you to clamp a caul on the outside of the sheer strake? If you are determined to use veneer, I would go with WEST system epoxy and a plywood caul that fits the patch.

Kicker on a wood runabout